Our previous experiences with homestays have often been simple and homely as we are comfortable staying with basic amenities. This approach also goes well with our purpose of leaving the least impact of our travel. After witnessing how the environment, communities, and local resources are overlooked by most hospitality service providers, we started believing that seeking more than basic can’t be sustainable. However,  we recently stumbled upon a remarkable homestay that changed our perception of luxury.

We got a chance to stay at this heritage property, a 100-year-old British bungalow surrounded by pine and Deodar trees in the famous cantonment town of Landour situated at the height of 8000 ft. in the lower Himalayas. When Sunita and Amarjeet Kudle, the couple working with top hospitality brands 20 years back, decided to move their life to the mountains, they chose this property and converted it into a luxury homestay, a first of this kind in Uttrakhand. This might not have been a story worth sharing if they had not adopted the approach of sustainability in restoring and running this place. When we got the invitation to visit them in the first week of March 2024, it was our first collaboration as travel storytellers and we were more excited about traveling first time with both our kids than anything else.

It was the time of spring and winter season saying it’s goodbye to the plains of northern India, from where we were traveling to this hill station as if chasing the cold breeze back to its home. We prefer a train journey for intercity travel with kids as it is comfortable and economical too, and kids love taking a train as they have space to play and enjoy while moving.  Dehradun, the capital city that provides connectivity to the twin hill stations of Mussoorie and Landour, surprisingly made us remove our warm clothes when we reached here at noon. There is a bus stand near Dehradun railway station from where regular buses are available for nearby towns, we wanted to take a bus to Mussoorie and then find some conveyance to go to Landour which is just 5 Km from there. We missed a bus by a few minutes and there was some time for the next. While I was in a queue for the next bus ticket, Almeer wandered curiously, while Ali peacefully slept. Some men were constantly shouting at a loudspeaker placed in front of the bus stand about a shared car ride to Mussoorie, it was a taxi booking counter. Being impatient while waiting for the bus, we decided to take 2 seats in a taxi and they made us wait even more after taking the booking amount. Anyway, we started moving towards the hills visible ahead of us. The driver was a chilled middle-aged man who never crossed the speed of 50 kmph and enjoyed the old Bollywood songs the whole way. We gained some height after one hour and started feeling cold but had put our warm clothes in our luggage at the back, we could see the whole of Dehradun city spread over miles and miles beneath.

As we stepped down from the car, the chilly mountain air enveloped us and we quickly opened our luggage to wrap ourselves and our children in woolens. We were standing at this nameplate saying ‘ The Kudle’s, La Villa Bethany’, the stairs were going down from the road followed by a sloppy path till the entrance gate. Without waiting for anyone, Almeer started walking down the slope which made him almost run with his little feet, and we had to follow him. It took no or little effort to roll the trolley down while I carried the backpack. We were greeted by the tantalizing aroma of pine and Deodar trees, and Almeer, wide-eyed with wonder, took in the sights and sounds of his new surroundings, his laughter echoing through the crisp mountain air. It took us 10 minutes to walk this short distance as it was a beautiful path decorated with flower plants in recycled tires and bottles fixed on the stone wall and We tried to immerse ourselves in natural scenery with clouds passing by the tall trees around.

A tiny home made of wooden logs deep into the jungle has always been in our fantasy and we do not remember telling this to anyone but the universe conspires in its ways. We were sipping our ginger lemon honey tea as a welcome drink and Shabana was telling us that the log cabin room was reserved for us, she takes care of the front desk and assists Sunita in day-to-day operations. She guided us to the room and a pleasant smell of wood welcomed us, the interior was themed like a castle and we felt like royals. It was spacious enough for our family of four with 3 beds, an attached bathroom, and a tiny kitchen area. It was so cozy and comfortable that we dropped the idea of going out in the evening and just rested.

We met Sunita at dinner and got to know about this special ritual followed at La Villa Bethany for all the guests. We thought that dinner would just be like a buffet or being served at our table but Sunita and her husband Amarjeet invite everyone to this heritage dining table and serve not only food but will take you 200 years back with the stories of this home, British people finding this place or about the traditional food and culture of the mountains. We got Marathi cuisines that night and willingly overeaten as all the items were delicious and mostly healthy too. The menu is planned by Sunita in the morning after checking the local vegetable supplies, She told us that mostly it is procured by local farmers. Even the room supplies like linen, soaps, and souvenirs are also sourced from local women-run organizations. The food brings you a new taste and recipe every day based on different cuisines from a state or culture of India. The kitchen is passionately guided by Sunita as she believes in the magical experience of food and providing a homely feeling to the guests. 

Our little one, 4 months old,  seemed to have a cold and we went to sleep after dinner. The room was very comfortable with a room heater and electric bed warmers.

The next morning we spent some hours sitting in the sun after having a fulfilling breakfast, it was warm and comforting. Almeer enjoyed the open space with swings and slides to play while we chatted with Sunita about her story of renovating this house with local materials and thinking about sustainability 12 years back when it was not in fashion. While coming down from the road on the first day we saw the big green water tanks on the sideway, she told us that they store about 1.4 lakh liters of rainwater and this property is among the few which is self-reliant for water use. Solar energy is mainly used to heat the water and outdoor lights. 

Sunita briefed us about experiences in Landour, we were surprised to know about this place having only 4 shops and 24 homes (char dukan aur chaubees makan) from the British time, the reason it being a cantonment town and prohibition of new construction here. This law has helped it to preserve its slow life and deep natural ecosystem, now offering serenity and heritage vibes to visitors.

We spent the next two days taking slow walks around the famous Landour Bazar. The full walking path is a 8 km infinity shaped trail and takes you to remarkable shops and famous bakery with secret English recipes.

We were watching the sunset sitting on the porch on our last evening there and thinking how Landour turned out to be a perfect getaway for a quality family vacation for us. La Villa Bethany is an obvious choice for someone seeking a home away from home with sustainability in mind. From rainwater harvesting to solar energy, every aspect of La Villa Bethany has been thoughtfully designed to minimize its environmental impact and maximize its connection to the surrounding landscape. As we bid farewell to our hosts and embarked on our journey back to the plains below, we carried with us not only memories of a magical stay but also a newfound appreciation for the beauty of sustainable living amidst the hills.

How to reach– Landour is the twin town of Mussoorie and Dehradun is the connecting city having an airport and railway station. It is a 2 hour drive from Dehradun and an overnight one from New Delhi.

To book your stay at La Villa Bethany, you can connect to ( +91 84392 55993) .